![]() ![]() Opaque materials such as ABS also don’t work well. My main suggestion is to avoid “transparent” materials such as T-glase and even crystal PLA, as the lithophane effect depends entirely on the thickness of the print being directly correlated to the amount of light passing through. We typically use PLA, though other materials can also work. When you’re happy, download the edited image and proceed to step 3. You can adjust additional settings (brightness, contrast, etc) if you please. png to Google Photos and throw on one of the grayscale filters on (Eiffel, Vogue, or Vista). You don’t need to convert your design to grayscale, but it can help you visualize how your final lithophane will look. Coasting: Enable (might give cleaner prints if you’re seeing some imperfections).Outer Wall Speed: 30 mm/s (slow down the speed to get those nice smooth details).Infill Pattern: Concentric (in case the wall thickness doesn’t cover everything, any infill will be printed match the walls).Wall Thickness: 1.75 (basically half the card thickness should be a multiple of the line width this ensures your entire lithophane is printed as smooth perimeters and not in an infill pattern).Next to Print Setup, select “Custom” rather than “Recommended.” Then use the search box to find these settings: Some people also recommend these additional settings, though I haven’t thoroughly tested how important these are myself. Check out Advanced Tips for examples of the same file printed at different resolutions) I usually go with 100 or 150 micron layers. Layer Height: 0.1 (lower layer height is typically considered “higher quality” and will linearly increase the required print time.Build Plate Adhesion: Enable (this will help the card stay put during the print).Infill: 100% (the print needs to be solid for the 3D grayscale effect to work properly). ![]()
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